Crested Gecko
Gargoyle GeckoCareSheet
Native Range:
The Crested Gecko was thought for some time to be extinct, however it was 'rediscovered' in 1994. It has become a commonly kept and bred species along with their cousin, the Gargoyle Gecko. These beautiful arboreal geckos are found on the Islands of New Caledonia. There they inhabit forested areas, hiding under tree bark and in crevices during the day, emerging to hunt insects and fruit at night. Unique in appearance, large in size, and easy to care for, these geckos are quickly becoming established in the pet trade.
Size and Appearance:
Approximately three inches long at birth, they average about eight to ten inches in length as adults. Juveniles are miniature replicas of the adults. Crested Geckos are rather variable in appearance, being colored browns, tan, yellow, rust, orange or even red. Various patterns of vertical striping, dalmation spotting, pinstriping, and harlequin are popular now amongst collectors and breeders. Gargoyle Geckos primarily are seen in reticulated (net-like) or striped patterns, with orange and red the newly emerging colors amongst breeders.
Handling:
These geckos although a bit flighty at times, will rarely attempt to bite. They should be handled gently to avoid tail dropping. The Crested Geckos will not regenerate their tail, the Gargoyles however, will regenerate their tail within a fairly short time. Crested and Gargoyle geckos are fairly calm. They will walk deliberately and attempt to jump from opne place to another. Until they become accustomed to handling; they should be handled over a table or while sitting on the floor. A startled gecko may leap out of hand and injure itself if the fall is too far.
Caging:
Just about anything can be used, with a ten or twenty gallon aquarium being adequate for a single adult. When selecting a cage, pay special attention to the humidity needs of these lizards. Screen covers may provide too much airflow unless they are sprayed daily. These geckos have well developed adhesive lamellae and can easily climb smooth surfaces. As with many members of the genus, R. ciliatus possesses a unique adhesive pad under the tail to assist it in climbing. They are strong jumpers and climbers, and climbing and hiding areas should be provided. Cages should be equipped with a secure cover as keepers have reported their geckos having the strength to push up a loose screen cover and escape.
Substrate:
Some breeders prefer to maintain their specimens on plain paper flooring, while others suggest use of damp cypress mulch to aid in increasing humidity. Experiment to see what works best for your Crested or Gargoyle. You may be surprised that they have preferences!
Food:
Crickets are eagerly accepted by these geckos. Hatchlings will feed on two to three week crickets. As they grow, provide larger crickets. Dust food with a calcium powder about twice a week to provide additional calcium for growing bones. Both babies and adults like love apricot, peach, nectarine, or banana baby food. I provide this every other feeding mixed with Crested Gecko diet powder. An advantage to using this feeding method is that the diets supplement the geckos as well. In my observations, my Gargoyle Geckos like the fruit baby food a lot. The Crested Geckos like it also, but really enjoy chasing the crickets. Adults may be supplemented once weekly, unless females are producing eggs. This uses huge amounts of calcium, and supplements should be made daily. Offer small amounts in a shallow dish about three times weekly.
Humidity & Water:
Provide clean water in a shallow dish. Humidity should be moderate, and these geckos seem to enjoy misting. If kept too dry, these geckos often experience shedding problems, particularly the toes. Stuck sheds on toes may harden and constrict the blood flow to the toes, causing loss of the toes. It may be necessary to reduce ventilation of the cage to increase humidity within. A humidity level of 50-75% seems adequate.
Heating & Lighting:
Conditions in their native habitat are quite mild, with average temperatures ranging from 65 to 85F, dropping to 55-65F in the winter. In most cases, normal household temperature is fine and no special heat source need be provided. No special lighting is required for these nocturnal animals.
Reproduction:
Adult males can be distinguished by the presence a pair of very prominent hemipene bulges. Juveniles cannot be sexed until four to six months of age, when the hemipene bulges begin to appear. Do not keep more than one male per cage as they will likely fight. Eggs are laid in pairs, usually every four weeks. This will continue until the females' fat and calcium reserves are depleted. If properly cared for, most females will lay from 16-20 eggs per season. Incubation averages 72 days, depending on temperature. Incubation temperatures ranging from 70-83F have all proven successful, and many breeders report that the temperature may even be allow to fluctuate within this range. To date no data is available to support temperature as determining the sex of the offspring.
